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This brief guide has the aim of describing the fences that are suitable for horses and ponies, and the landscape in which they are kept. Unsuitable or poorly maintained fencing can be dangerous for horses and looks unsightly within the landscape. Please be aware that the information on this page is available with pictures as a PDF at the end of the page.

1. Introduction
2. Specification
3. Fence Styles
4. Summary

1. Introduction

Horses and ponies must be properly fenced in to prevent them straying, but the suitability of the fencing depends on many things such as the temperament of the horses and ponies to be confined, as well as the number kept in a given area. There will also generally be a financial consideration as well! But above all, a fence must be a visible, physical barrier to prevent the risk of any injuries.

Surrey County is divided into seven distinct landscape types, from the open often treeless landscape of the Thames Floodplain to the rolling, enclosed and wooded landscape of the High Weald. Any fencing carried out should try to reflect and, where possible, to benefit the local landscape and environment. Surrey County Council's Planning Policy Guidance note 1 states "The aim should be for any development to result in a 'benefit' in environmental and landscape terms."

There are two main fence types to consider: permanent and temporary. Boundary fences are generally permanent whilst fencing used to sub divide paddocks for a variety of reasons, such as for hay making, grass land restoration or to restrict the grazing available to ponies that might suffer from laminitis, can be temporary or moveable. Planning permission will be required for fencing in some instances. The basic rule is that fencing over 1 metre in height adjacent to a highway will require permission. Elsewhere, fencing over 2 metres in height will require planning permission. In some parts of the County additional planning controls, known as 'Article 4 Directions', may require permission to be obtained for all fencing, irrespective of height. It is therefore worth checking with your local planning authority before any fencing work is undertaken.

Watch Fencing advice video(Transcript at bottom of the page)

Please note: This file uses Windows Media Video/Audio 9 Codecs. If you have a problem viewing, you can download the latest Windows Media Playerfrom the Microsoft site.

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2. Specification

The British Standards Institute sets the standards for fencing design and construction. All the fences described in this Advice Note must comply with British Standard 1722 if they are to be recommended. Different types and sizes of horses and ponies need different types and heights of fences. A two-rail post and rail fence for shire horses might allow a Shetland pony to nip underneath! A general height can be taken from a standard fence post of 1.8m which allows for 1.3m of post to be above the ground, 50cm driven or concreted into the ground, and the top rail or top wire to be at a height of 1.2m. Trees must never be used instead of fence posts. Not only is it harmful to the tree, but as the tree grows upwards, so would your fence! Barbed wire should never be used to confine horses and ponies.

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3. Fence styles

Across the County there are a variety of different fencing styles, from post and rail to stone walls. Historically, the local materials available were used to enclose paddocks and fields. In areas where stone outcrops are common, that stone was used for wall building and where there is a lot of native coppice, the fences would be made of that timber.

1. Timber fences

Timber fences are expensive, with roughly half the cost of a fence being the labour involved, but they are generally considered the safest. The Sussex post and rail with riven rails of naturally durable oak or sweet chestnut is seen in the High and Low Wealds, with sawn post and rail seen elsewhere in Surrey. The fence posts can be of a hard wood, such as oak or chestnut, but the fence rails can be of treated softwood. Using coppiced wood, such as chestnut posts and rails from a local source can help to support a local industry. Two rails are the minimum needed, but three rails are far better, with the top rail protected from being chewed by running a strand of electric wire or tape along it or inside it. Insulators can be either nailed or screwed to the posts and either a mains or battery supplied power unit generating the necessary power.

2. Metal Park fencing

This fencing is most often seen around the historic formal landscape parks of Surrey. It is expensive to erect, but because of the importance of the parkland setting, grant aid may be available to replace or repair sections of broken fencing. Local authorities or English Heritage can generally advise on the likelihood of this and put you in contact with any possible sources of funding, and The Surrey Gardens Trust could provide advice on the supply, erection and maintenance of park fencing. As this type of fencing is so expensive, it is not normally recommended for use for horses where it does not already exist.

3. Plain Wire

Plain wire fences must be correctly erected and maintained. It is important that this fencing has sufficient straining posts to keep the wire taught and, ideally, mechanisms put in place to allow for the wire to be re-tightened over time. If wire fences are not on a perimeter or backed by a hedge then a double fence, creating a corridor between two fields, should be used. Ideally plain wire fences have a more visible top rail, or green or brown electric tape at the top of the fence. An electric wire or tape also deters the horses and ponies from leaning on the fence which not only stretches the wires but also will, in time, loosen the fence posts. Pressure treated softwood posts, or more ideally, locally sourced native sweet chestnut fence posts should be used. A plain wire fence has the least visual impact on the surrounding landscape as from a distance only the fence posts are visible. Barbed or narrow gauge high tensile steel wire can injure horses and ponies and should not be used where they are closely confined.

4. Wire netting

Sheep and pig netting are useful fencing materials when sheep are grazed with or after horses and ponies. There is a risk, as with plain wire fences, that they may get their hooves or shoes caught if they paw at the fence. This is a particular risk between two paddocks where a double fence should always be erected. Specialist horse netting is produced with smaller mesh to overcome this problem. As with plain wire fences an electrified tape or wire along the top of the fence will prolong its life.

5.Electric fencing

As with wire fences, electric fencing can be made up of either strands of electric wire or tape, electric mesh or even 'poly™' rope. The fence supplier can advise on the most effective fence for a given purpose. It is important that any electric fence is erected according to the manufacturers recommendations, and only fencing designed for horses and ponies is used. The fence must have a warning sign on it if it is near to a public right of way. Brown or green tape has the least visual impact on the landscape, yet is highly visible to grazing horses. White tape only serves to attract attention to itself, particularly when it is loose and flapping in the wind!

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4. Summary

Although fencing can be expensive to erect initially, a well constructed and maintained fence will last for a good length of time, as well as safeguarding your horses and ponies from injury and even the risk of straying. It may be possible to get help with either funding or practical help to protect existing trees and hedges and even plant new ones in appropriate areas. Your local authority can generally advise on the likelihood of this and put you in contact with any possible sources. A small effort can lead to a big impact on the local landscape as well as to the health of your horse or pony!

The advice note is also available in a PDF version by following the link below.